Early morning at Swayambhunath

Why they call it 'Monkey Temple'!

We awoke at 5.30 this morningto visit Swayambhunath, or 'Monkey Temple'. This Buddhist temple is an impressive structure on a hill at the outskirts of the city which looks over Kathmandu. The name means 'self arisen', because originally Kathmandu was a lake, and it is said the city grew from a lotus flower on the lake. Dr Yoghindra drove us to the temple, and as we arrived we were met with a cacophony of noise as approximately 30 groups, each representing a section of the city, each played music with drums and trumpets and even some flutes. They have been doing this at dawn for the past few weeks, and this week will be the last week of the festival. The sound was fantastic, there were beautiful bright prayer-flags everywhere, and many brass prayer wheels (too many to count), ranging from small ones all around the walls about 15cm high to massive 12 ft wheels. Some of them ring a bell each time a full turn is made, adding to the noise. One spins these as you pass, offering up prayers. There was a smell was of incense in the air, a lovely refreshing change to the piles of rotting rubbish in areas of Kathmandu, and many people lit small changes and fires.

Prayer flags overlooking Kathmandu

Prayer wheels

When we arrived the celebrations were already in full swing, but we met the group from the area we are staying in, and whilst listening to the music one of them 'blessed us' with a lump of red wax-like substance of our foreheads. I truly felt honoured to be part of the celebrations - we were the only two foreigners there amongst probably close to a thousand people. Apparently not even the tourist office knew of the celebrations, and I am indebted to Dr Yogindra for allowing me to share in this experience.

 Yan, myself and Dr Yoghindra with local group at festival